From display kit to tabletop: using scale figures in historical wargames

Display-scale resin figures—the kind that spend their lives on shelves and in dioramas—make striking tabletop wargame pieces. A carefully painted 75mm figure or a 1/32 mounted general commands attention far more than a 28mm rank-and-file soldier. However, moving from diorama to wargame table requires a few practical adjustments. The figure is not at risk in a diorama; on a game table, it moves, it gets handled, and the focus shifts from photorealism to playability. Here is how to use display figures in wargames without losing them or wasting the work you put into painting them.

Why display scale works for wargaming

Most tabletop wargame rules assume figures are roughly the same size—28mm to 32mm is standard. When you introduce a 75mm or 1/32 figure into that world, several things happen at once. First, it becomes visually dominant. In a column of cavalry or a dense infantry block, a single larger figure commands the eye. That is useful if it represents a commander, a hero or a special unit. Second, the larger size makes fine details visible from across the table—details that disappear on a smaller figure. A well-painted 75mm figure with proper metalwork and weathering reads as a centerpiece, not a game piece.

Rules-wise, most wargame systems treat a figure as a single entity regardless of its real-world scale. A 75mm figure occupies the same base space and counts as one soldier or cavalry trooper, or it counts as a commander or hero depending on your army list. The height difference does not usually matter unless the rules specifically address it.

Basing for protection and movement

A display figure on a wargame table needs good basing. This serves two purposes: it protects the figure from damage and it clearly marks what the figure represents to other players.

Mounting for strength. The figure should be glued securely to the base, not just pinned. Pin placement matters. For a standing figure, a pin up through the feet and into the body works, but you need a second point of contact—usually a glue joint between the hip or torso and the base—to keep the figure stable during handling. A mounted figure should be pinned through both the horse and rider. Test the joint gently before gluing; if the pin is too loose, tighten the fit by wrapping the pin with a single layer of thread.

Base size. Match your base to the game’s rules. If the rules call for a 20mm square per infantry soldier, a single large figure should occupy roughly one square’s worth of real estate. A mounted figure typically uses a 25mm × 50mm or 30mm × 60mm base depending on the horse’s pose. Check your ruleset’s basing guide before you mount.

Visual clarity. The base should make it immediately clear which side the figure belongs to and what it represents. Use an undercoat colour—black, brown, or a neutral grey—that contrasts with your gaming board. Add unit markers: a small flag, an insignia sticker, or a painted symbol on the base rim. Players need to see at a glance whether a large figure is a named commander, a hero, or a character special ability holder.

Placement in unit formations

Display-scale figures are too valuable to lose, so plan their placement carefully. Do not put them in the front rank where they draw the heaviest enemy attention. Instead, place them in the second or third rank, or make them the centerpiece of a smaller command group.

Commanders and heroes. A single 75mm figure often represents a commander or a named hero. Place it in the centre of the unit it commands, or slightly behind the front rank so it is visible but protected. Most wargame rules give characters special rules that justify their larger size and better painting.

Special units. Some armies include special units—an elite cavalry troop, a guard unit, a champion warrior. A display-scale figure works here, occupying the space of one to three standard-size soldiers but representing something exceptional. Paint it differently so players recognise the distinction at a glance.

Avoid the vanguard. In most wargames, the front rank takes casualties first. Even though a figure does not physically suffer when it is removed from the table, losing a beloved display figure to a lucky enemy roll is painful. Keep valuable figures safer.

Handling and transport

A figure that travels to a gaming table needs protection. Use figure cases with foam inserts, not plastic zip-bags or open boxes. Even a padded box can shift during transport, and a delicate painted figure can suffer chip damage from rubbing against others.

For long campaigns or regular play, consider a display figure “unit cohesion” rule: if the figure is removed as a casualty, it returns to play the next turn representing a valiant return. Some wargamers treat their heroes as units that take multiple hits before being knocked out. Check your ruleset or agree with your opponent beforehand.

Integration with standard-size figures

The visual disparity between a 75mm figure and 28mm soldiers is real, but it is workable. Most players accept a single large figure in a unit as representing something exceptional. The 1/32 scale is larger still and reads almost as a different category—a diorama figure on the game table—but players have learned to suspend disbelief for special characters.

Place a command group of standard-size figures around the large one so it is not isolated. A mounted general with a small group of standard cavalry riders looks intentional, not out of place.

Practical tips for the first game

• Tell your opponent in advance. If you are using display-scale figures, mention it before the game starts. Most players welcome it; it adds character to the table.
• Mark the figure’s rules clearly. If a 75mm figure is a hero with special abilities, write those down on a card next to the unit. Do not rely on the figure’s appearance to communicate rules.
• Take photos for your records. Display-scale figures usually represent significant points investment. Photograph your painted units for reference and posterity.
• Play it safe with movement. Handle a valuable figure more gently than standard army pieces. Some players keep display figures on the table but move them via a small wooden marker instead of picking them up.

Your best-painted figures deserve to see the game table, not just a shelf. With proper mounting, careful placement and clear communication, they enhance any wargame.